The days are full—it is difficult to get down to writing. We had language this a.m., then I went shopping at the Iran Super—had lunch, now a note—a bit of rest then back to language and a lecture.
Yesterday we had another trip. We toured the University. It has new buildings.
The University of Tehran officially opened in 1934 and admitted women students starting in 1937. Although much has changed since the 1979 revolution, it continues to be the most prominent university in Iran.
Photos: Katharine Boylan
The most interesting place was the new mosque. The architect is the same as the one who did the pavilion at Montreal.
The University Mosque was designed by Abdol-Aziz Farmanfarmaian. I found this very interesting article in an architectural journal that digs into the central role of Tehran University and its architecture in the sociopolitical history of Iran.
Photos: Katharine Boylan
We had to remove our shoes, and wear chadors, the long dark coverings from head to foot. They are made of a half circle—quite often black. We’ve seen many light colored ones, too. I am told that lace ones are worn for dress occasions.
The chador is a traditional garment worn by many women who follow Islamic customs as a symbol of modesty. In the early 1960s, the Shah’s government began to push for greater Westernization, encouraging women to adopt more modern, secular clothing. The 1963 White Revolution was a series of reforms that included granting women the right to vote and pushing for their participation in the workforce. These changes, including the shift away from traditional dress, increased tension between the government and religious factions. Here are some photos of Katharine and Julie in a chador, and a street view Kathariine labeled “Iran—Tehran—Chador.”
Photos: Katharine Boylan
Then we went to a Catholic Youth Center, just in the process of being built. Except for the confessionals we would have thought it was Episcopal. The cross over the altar was plain and simple, not a crucifix. As the priest said, “so much of our art is bad.” This group is evidently implementing all the new changes in the C. church. We then visited the Pres. Univ. Youth Center. It is difficult to get the relationship of all the centers.
A group of us are planning to rent a small bus—with driver—and go to the mountain area on Thursday. Saturday we have teachers’ meetings. My room at school is filled with books, so can do nothing there.
I love you—Katharine
Sat. a.m. Sept 2nd
Days have strange names. It surely seems unusual to have the first faculty meeting on a Saturday. But I’m having to learn that Saturday is not a day off, to stop and catch up.
Yesterday the group—that is the new people—were invited to the home of the Jaradi’s. She will teach nursery and Kdg. She and her family (four children) have come here from Utah. She is a Mormon, married to an Irani. They have come here for a three year stint. He is an accountant for an oil company, what is the American Oil Co. in the States. She felt the children should know about the Iranian heritage. His family, mother, sisters, etc. are all here. Mr. J. cooked us a Persian dinner. It was good. There was rice, cooked two different ways. Eggplant—I’ve liked it every way I’ve had it. Also there was what I would call pickled eggplant—being sour of course I liked it.
I found this recipe for pickled eggplant—torshi badjeman—on a Persian food blog.
Their furniture has not come so the house is rather sparsely furnished, but the arrangement is typically Persian. There are no yards in our sense of the word. Everything is walled in Inside the wall is a patio, pool, etc. We (I believe there were twelve) had good luck getting taxis. That is not always the case. It was a most interesting afternoon.
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When there’s $500 extra in my acct I wish you’d send a check to me. We have a week or so of vacation at Coronation Time, and I want to take a trip, and won’t save enough by that time. Getting drapes, etc. for the apt has cost quite a bit. I don’t want to miss any trips.
I love you—Katharine
Friday—almost noon—Sept. 8, 1967
Greetings—it is always good to hear from you. But there seems to be little time to write. It is difficult to sit down and write letters. Then I forget what I’ve written. The letter that Bobbie sent is paying off dividends, and from surprising people. One of the first was from Ebert [K’s uncle], welcoming me to the expatriates. I heard from Bobbie this week. Think I’ve heard from 15 people—I’m behind in answering. I do wish my air freight would come. I need my typewriter—as well as more underclothes—I’m forever washing!
Think you must not have received at least one letter. I’m living with Jane M (Wash. D.C.)—Julie B (Missouri & Wyoming—the dramatic one). Don’t know how it will work out—there are moments.
Here is a picture of Jane and another friend (Julie is pictured above in her chador) and several from the roof of their dorm.
Photos: Katharine Boylan
Had my first day with my class yesterday. The school is an old hospital. My room had been an operating room. Twenty-four showed up. There are four more on the list. And oh—it is so very crowded. Don’t know too much of the backgrounds. Five, I believe, from the Mission Group. One is Oriental, adopted by a Mission family. There are Iranians, Jewish, etc. One father (Iranian) after much repeating finally made me understand he wanted his daughter to sit near the Americans—for conversation!
Here are some pictures of her first grade class from 1967-68.
Photos: Katharine Boylan
There is a compound down in the city—where we go to church—and where the offices are. I still can’t get all the relationships of the various agencies figured out.
There’s much talk of trips. There are more holidays! We’ll have about a week at Coronation time, quite a long one at Christmas, Now Ruz—the Persian New Year, a short one at Easter. It seems to be the thing to get going over a holiday—and I hope to be among the going.
Did a washing this morning. The clothes dry in no time. It is so very dry. The temperature hovers around 98°—but not as uncomfortable as Cleveland at that temperature.
I love you—Katharine
I hope you’veenjoyed this installment of K’s travels. See you next week for more adventures!
