Ruth—where do I start—about five minutes ago I arrived at the Augusta—a pension. But to go back. The night was short, as far as darkness. A short sunset, but dark by 8:00 p.m. The first glow at 12—but I had to turn on the light to see the time. At 12:30 I could see my watch, at 1:00 bright sunshine! We set down at 2:10—now 8:10—and it took me this long to get here, with I don’t know how many thousand lira. I’m sure the taxi driver made plenty!
According to this document, a one-way ticket from New York to Rome on TWA would have cost $424.00 in 1967. A pension is a guest house that is often family-owned and typically offers a package that includes lodging, breakfast, and lunch and/or dinner.
On the bus from the plane to the airport the T.W.A. girl gave me the reservation for the Augusta. When I asked she said it was down town. I changed some money—took the bus into town—800 lira ($1.30). When I got a taxi he didn’t “know” where it was—would take me to a “good” one. I finally made him understand I had a reservation, so he went somewhere and found out. He rang the bell and was off. Think he was afraid I’d argue longer about the fare. Every time I started to count again he handed me another piece. As near as I can figure with the T.W.A. booklet it cost—bus fare, taxi fare, and several tips—about $5.00 to get this far.
TWA was a major US airline that was acquired by American Airlines in 2001. It became an all-jet airline in 1967. Its main transatlantic hub was the Eero Saarinen-designed TWA Flight Center at JFK International Airport in New York. I learned that the role of TWA “hostess” sometimes included assistance with lodging and other travel arrangements. I also learned that Roman taxi drivers can still get up to some mischief.
The bus trip took almost an hour, I think. A good bit of it in a traffic jam through the market area. The fruit was beautiful, but my it was hot. Have no idea what part of the city I am in. We came by the Coliseum—at least what looks like the picture of it.
The bus from Rome Fiumicino Airport to the city center still takes about an hour, and costs about $10. The Colosseum is one of Rome’s most iconic landmarks and historical sites. On the way to the city from the airport, they likely passed through Campo de’ Fiori, a piazza in the old center of Rome that has a daily fresh market with flowers, fruit, herbs, and vegetables
My “room”—not any larger, if as large as my bedroom in Colwyn—costs 8000 lira for one night, breakfast, and one meal. It is warm (understatement).
In 1967, the exchange rate was about 625 lira to the dollar—8000 lira=$12.80.
I thought I would rest—I didn’t sleep—but do not feel sleepy now. There were so very few on that big plane I had—as did everyone—the three seats. I took out an arm and could get my feet up, but sleep did not come. I paid to watch the movie—“Barefoot in the Park.” I had seen the play, but it did pass the time, and I had never been on a plane that had movies before. The trip did not seem very long. A good deal of the time the seat belt sign was on. It was eerie to be watching a movie bumping along. I had a few minutes of feeling lonely, but I am excited about it all.
Katharine would have flown on a Boeing 707, which had 3 seats on either side of the aisle in economy class. TWA introduced in-flight movies in 1961. They were projected onto a single screen at the front of the cabin using a specially designed 16mm film projector mounted in the cabin ceiling, with the sound broadcast either over the cabin PA system or individual headsets. Movies were typically recent Hollywood releases—Barefoot in the Park came out in May, 1967.
Went down the hall to the bathroom, and my money belt fell off. The strap broke. Wasn’t that a lucky place to have it happen!
It is so hot that my hand sticks to the paper.
Yesterday was fun—and exciting. Every one is so good to me.
I’d like to see a globe. We went over Newfoundland, or so he said. Couldn’t see a thing.
I love you so—it was hard to leave. Thanks for all you did to help.
Think I’ll wash my face (a bowl in the room)—and then decide what to do.
Love, Katharine
Thursday p.m.—at the airport
My watch stopped today. It’s hot. I got “taken in” by another taxi driver, and I had to pay overweight on my briefcase. I’m sure it isn’t worth it.
But the rest of yesterday—which seems a long time ago. I walked a bit after I wrote you. Thought I’d come back to the hotel to eat—flopped down—and slept, hot as it was. Wakened just in time for a sightseeing trip. At the end we were let out several blocks from the hotel (another couple & boy). We chatted a bit. They live in Wash. state—they had just come from Iran—the wife is Iranian—hadn’t been home in twenty years.
I went into the dining room to eat. The woman at the next table heard me say thank you to the waiter. Asked if I was from the States. So I began to tell her about going to Iran—when the boy on the other side broke in. What school? Turns out two years ago he had gone to Community—is now in college in New York. His father runs a travel agency. I said I’d be happy to know his name, etc. etc. The boy is on his way to Iran. Will tell his father about me.
I can imagine that it must have been nice for K to make these connections and start to learn a little more about the place she was going. I’ll share more about the Community School in future posts. She had this framed image in her files. On the back she noted: “Community School—Tile in Library—also in St. Simon, the Zealot Church in Shiraz. Names of Jesus.”
One can drive into Turkey—and eventually up into Europe.
Here’s a map of this part of the world. I don’t believe K ever went overland to Europe, but she did take quite a few driving trips in Iran and surrounding countries. More of this to come!
The husband of the Iranian wife didn’t like Iran. Both he & the boy were sick—the boy offered the information that one day it was 129°. But it’s cooler now.
The American turned out to be from Chicago, Jewish, 76—has been to Russia to see his brother and sister. We went on the illuminated tour last night and to St. Peter’s this a.m.
The illuminated tour was likely on a bus and narrated by a guide. It would have included stops such as the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and other iconic sites, each lit up for the occasion. Here’s a short video of the Trevi Fountain by day and night.
St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City was completed in 1626, and is believed to be the burial site of the apostle Peter, the first Bishop of Rome / Pope.
Think I’ll see if I can spend my last lire for a stamp.
I love you—Katharine
Don’t plan to write every day.
I hope you’veenjoyed this installment of K’s travels. Next week we’ll follow along as she arrives in Tehran and gets settled in her new home.
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