The earliest journal entry I have for K’s adventures is written on three-ring paper, and it opens aboard a ship—apparently just after the voyage has started. The journal appears to be a series of letters to her sister Ruth (my grandmother) and other family members. It looks like she was traveling with three friends: Bertha, Helen, and Liz—probably fellow teachers/administrators from her school in Cleveland.
Saturday noon—July 6
The rest of the day went quickly. We had to take turns unpacking, but we seem to have most things tucked away. Bertha did not have her “tote” bag delivered, so that took a little doing, but it was finally delivered.
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In the two deck chairs beside us are a pair of twins—illustrators—work in the Pentagon. They are most interesting. They will meet a tour organized by the Navy. We went on deck before breakfast—it looked as if it would be a beautiful day, but by the time we went back after breakfast it had rained. We were glad for our protected deck chairs. But finally after about an hour and a half the dampness drove me in.
As you’ll see below, I was able to figure out which ship they were on. Here is what their deck chairs and blankets would have looked like. (Photo from the SS United States Conservancy.)
It is now almost time for lunch—we didn’t take bouillion at eleven—but I ate more breakfast than usual. I don’t feel hungry but expect I shall eat.
At our table is another woman—and a man—not together. The man is an editorial writer for the Kansas City Star. He did not show up for breakfast. Perhaps five women were too many for him. We didn’t find out much about the woman—except that she had her passage only three days before she sailed!
Helen and Liz have already bought perfume on the ship. “They” say that it is even cheaper than in Paris.
Sun. night
We have again turned our clocks ahead 75 minutes. This is not the shock the change of time was on the plane.
To keep up with shifts in time zones, cruise ships make periodic adjustments to “ship time” to help passengers adapt. On cruises with stops in multiple ports, this can sometimes lead to confusion between ship time and local time, but that is a smaller issue on crossings such as this one.
Today the sea has been choppy—but has calmed down tonight. It seems that there is nothing one has to do—but deck sitting, eating, sleeping, and another day is gone.
Of course, we have not caught sight of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor nor Helena Rubenstein.
A great clue to the ship they were on! I found a newspaper story about the Duke and Duchess sailing from Manhattan to Paris on July 6 aboard the ocean liner SS United States. She was built in 1950-51, and is the largest ocean liner to be entirely constructed in the US. She still holds the record highest average speed for a passenger liner in regular service crossing the Atlantic. Here’s a fascinating NPR story about her history, and the end of her life as an artificial reef in the waters off Florida. As a side note, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor in 1963 were the former King Edward VIII and his wife, Wallis Simpson, who he abdicated the throne to marry.
The meals are wonderful—but much, too much food. I’ve had roast beef—can’t imagine any being better. Tonight I had “Bird nest soup au Tasse.” It was bouillon with shredded leek—very interestingly seasoned. The fresh fruits are beautiful—they bring bowls of it ot the cabin but we eat so much at meals it is impossible to eat any more.
Here’s an example of a dinner menu from the SS United States.
I took a few pictures today of us in our deck chairs. It is wonderful just to sit—and know there is nothing that has to be done.
Ruth—your hair set has stayed wonderfully—even better than the ones I have at home. I am surprised with the wind and all. And I am amazed at how soon I got used to the color.
Helen and I went to the “Horse Racing.” We decided to play—and won! So we left immediately while we were ahead.
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There are many families aboard. Some I know are military men going abroad for a tour of duty.
I wore my knit suit today with the polka dot blouse. It was very comfortable—I’m certain I’ll get a great deal of use of it—on the trip, and for school next year.
We attended one movie—but the other ones have not interested us, and it is more fun to sit on the deck.
It amazes me that the ship does not seem more crowded—though it must be all filled.
Everyone is in bed—reading. This is really the life of Riley. It is fun for these few days. It is strange how very lazy one can get.
Mon a.m.
It is a gray day—but the sea is much more smooth than yesterday. I am sitting on deck. It is cool but I am comfortable with a blanket over me. I think I shall stay until bouillon is served. Not that I need it but I enjoy the luxury of the service.
Apparently a mid-morning bouillon service was a standard offering on cruise ships at this time! Although it doesn’t seem to be as common any more, a listing from a present-day European river cruise includes this: “The ship serves six meals daily (breakfast, mid-morning bouillon, lunch, afternoon tea, dinner and late night snack).”
Today Helen will have her hair done—but mine still looks good.
Tonight we had the “Gala” dinner—paper hats, etc. etc. I had artichoke something for first course, and partridge stuffed with champagne sour kraut. Balloons were on the table—small flags, U.S. and of the ship. We were given the flags, menus, and hats. It was gay and fun, but in no way boisterous.
At the purser’s we changed some American money for Francs. Tomorrow we have to take turns packing and standing in line for our landing cards. It has been a pleasant trip, but I’m getting ready for a change of scenery. It still amazes me how very quickly the time goes when there is no work to be done except the nightly washing. And that for four people is considerable, but everyone is most considerate.
Until the introduction of the Euro in the early 2000s, travelers had to exchange money for different currencies in each European country they visited.
The clock says it is time to sleep but none of us seems very sleepy.
Tues a.m.
The 75 minutes change of time makes it difficult to get up. As I look back this letter does not sound as interesting as the days have been. I think I’ll end this and get it in the mail from the ship. The big job today is to pack.
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