This morning we took the train to Bath—got there in time for lunch. We ate at the Hole-in-the-Wall. And such good food as we had. I had read about it, and it was all that had been said, and more. As far as size it was small, but not in size of servings or quality.
The Hole in the Wall at Bath was opened in 1952 by George Perry Smith, who had recently moved from Paris and, without any formal culinary training, opened a restaurant that became a major influence on post-war English cooking. It featured locally sourced ingredients and innovative recipes. This one, for salmon in pastry with ginger and currants and herb sauce, is consistently mentioned as gem.
We then walked to see the Roman Baths. According to what I’ve read they are the most complete of any of the Roman ruins. They surely must have been elaborate from the amount that is left. There was nothing small about them! We tasted the warm water—visited the museum.
In the first few decades of Roman Britain, a temple and settlement were built around natural springs, with facilities for public bathing—the Roman Baths—that have survived to this day in the city of Bath.
After that we visited the Abbey—that is I don’t know how many centuries old. It had interesting grave stones set in the side walls—as well as the floor. We shopped a bit. I bought a linen bath towel in Bath!
Bath Abbey is a medieval church with origins in the 7th century. In addition to its gorgeous architecture, it has over 1400 memorials in walls and floors.
Then we took the train back to London. For supper we had a “meat” tea—again which was all we wanted after our lunch. They serve “tea” until eleven. Sandwiches, tea, sweets—for a dollar. It works out very well. Two large meals make too much food.
The nomenclature of “afternoon tea,” “high tea,” etc. can be very confusing. Some definitions of meat tea describe a substantial meal, while others describe a light late-afternoon meal with sandwiches, biscuits, and cake, which is what it sounds like K and her friends enjoyed. These days, it sounds like one of the best bargains for an afternoon tea like this (according to Conde Nast Traveler) is at the British Museum.
We’ve eaten very well on this trip. With all the walking we’ve done, I’m certain I’ve not lost any pounds. As yet, no one has had the tourist ailment, which is good.
Tomorrow is another day—and morning comes soon. So good night. Hope you had a pleasant “wedding” day.
Today was Ruth’s wedding anniversary.
Today (Thursday) we shopped. We took Bertha to the tour bus and she took a tour of Windsor Castle and Hampton Court. On the same bus was my friend Mrs. Allen that we had seen at Anne Hathaway’s Cottage. I decided to stay in the city and shop. Not that I bought so much but I believe not all travel should be “in the past.” We went by—and in—some of the beautiful shops on Bond Street and Regent Street. Beautiful things are expensive anywhere—but there are lovely things here. It is with the materials that I really have to restrain myself.
We just had a conference—trying to fit the various “musts” of sightseeing into the two remaining days. As always one has to make choices. For the most part we are pretty well agreed on the things we want to see and do.
Have just been down to cash a Traveler’s Check. In the morning early I want to go out to send a cablegram to my friend Anne Herzog who is being married Saturday. I’m sorry I’m missing the wedding.
I found K’s friend’s wedding announcement in the newspaper—she was one of K’s fellow teachers.
Love— Katharine
Friday, August 9
Still our good weather holds. It has really been amazing.
We took a 9:00 a.m. train to Canterbury. Mostly we visited the Cathedral. It was most interesting—of Gothic and Norman design. It is amazing how each cathedral—each city—has a flavor all its own.
Canterbury Cathedral, founded in 597, is the spiritual home of the Church of England and the seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury. It is filled with history and architectural splendor. K brought home this pictorial guidebook.
Soon after we entered the cathedral it was announced that the Ritual of the Bell would be held at 11:00. A solder marched in—stood at attention—the priest rang a bell—(from a ship)—another gave a prayer—we were told to pray for the aliens (so I guess we were to pray for ourselves)—the soldier then walked into the Warrior’s Chapel, turned the pages of the big book in which the names of those in the last two wars were recorded. Then everyone repeated the Lord’s Prayer. Usually the Warrior’s Chapel is closed but for some reason it is open this week, so we walked in that.
The Warriors’ Chapel is also known as the Buffs chapel, in honor of the Royal East Kent Regiment, one of the oldest regiments in the British Army. Here is a description of the ceremony she saw. It includes turning the page in the Buffs Book of Remembrance, which lists the names of over 7000 men from the regiment who died during service after 1914. I did find a clue to why the chapel may have been open—Sunday, August 11 (two day’s after K’s visit) was the Buff’s annual commemoration service at the cathedral. This tradition began in 1919, but sadly ended in 2019.
There are many ruins in Canterbury. The old city gates are interesting—much of the city wall is intact. It is Norman.
Here’s a picture K took at Canterbury Cathedral.
Every time I see some of these things I get overwhelmed with my ignorance of history. There was much made of the murder of Thomas Becket—I believe that was the subject of the play, “Death in the Cathedral.” I always think I’ll do some reading but I don’t get at it once I’m home.
Thomas Becket became Archbishop of Canterbury in 1162, and came into conflict with Henry II. He was murdered in Canterbury Cathedral in 1170, and was canonized by Pope Alexander III. He was the subject of both T. S. Eliot’s 1935 play “Murder in the Cathedral” and Jean Anouilh’s 1959 play “Becket,” which was adapted into a 1964 film starring Peter O’Toole and Richard Burton, and was filming in England this very month in a replica of the interior of Canterbury Cathedral.
We consulted the Automobile Club pages for a place to eat. Only Slatter’s Hotel was given. We had a three-course lunch—could be called dinner—for about 85c. I had asparagus soup, fish & beans, potatoes, turnips, rolls, pie. It was very well cooked. We have really had very good food. Don’t expect to see me thin!
Slatters Hotel opened around 1898 in the center of Salisbury. Some years after K’s visit it fell into disrepair. In 2017-18 the Canterbury Archaeological Trust undertook a major excavation of a Roman structure dating from the first century AD on the hotel site, and the area has since been redeveloped.
