Greetings—we left Dublin about 45 minutes late—due to leave at 9:30—but a mistake was made in our hotel bill. It took some time to straighten it out. But it has been a beautiful trip. We drove south from Dublin along the coast—the weather has been beautiful. We have been so favored with sunny days. The skies have been so blue with white fleecy clouds—and the water was a lovely deep blue, too.
We had lunch at Wexford where we had an interesting experience. As I came out of the rest room after lunch, Bertha said “they want to take our pictures.” It turned out they were opening a new Shell Oil Station—and for the publicity wanted to show some life in the hotel. Guess they had waited some time for some one to come in.
Much to my surprise, I was able to find a picture of what I think is the very station she described. It was next to the Talbot Hotel, which is still in existence but much enlarged and upgraded from its original two floors. I found this story of a young man who would have been working at the Talbot when K came to visit.
The hotel girl was making Irish Coffee, Bertha and I were seated with a resident of Wexford between us. Then we got to drink the Irish Coffee. The publicity man “said” he would send us copies of the pictures—and if it made their magazine he would send copies of that to us. I can’t imagine I would be photogenic enough to have it do that—but I was glad I had washed my hair last night. It looks pretty good—but I don’t recommend sleeping on the rollers!
Irish coffee is made with sweetened coffee, Irish whiskey, and cream. Follow along to make your own at home.
We stopped at “Titania’s Palace”—it was a miniature palace, done in minute detail. Unbelievable that one could or would want to make it. Think it had taken 37 years to make. The details included such things as tiny gold rings on the dresser no larger than “o.” Then we heard a set of eight small bells made by the maker of the bells in Big Ben.
Here’s the story of how Titania’s Palace came to be. Designed in 1907 by Sir Neville Wilkinson for his daughters, the doll’s house was completed in 1922. It traveled around the world for quite a few years. In about 1940, the daughters moved it to Gorey, in County Wexford, where it raised about £50,000 per year for children’s charities until 1965. It now resides in Denmark, owned by the LEGO Foundation, and still benefits children in need.
We stopped a bit in Waterford to see the glass—not the factory. It is, of course, beautiful glass—very expensive but very poorly displayed.
Waterford Crystal, an Irish manufacturer of cut glass products, has roots in Waterford, Ireland that date back to the late 1700s. When K was there in 1963, it was a subsidiary of the Irish Glass Bottle company, owned by the guys who got rich on the Irish Sweepstakes (featured in last week’s post). It has changed hands several times and is now owned by the Finnish company Fiskars, with most glass being produced outside Ireland. There is still a small factory and visitor’s center in Waterford that offers guided tours, afternoon tea, and a retail store. Lismore, Waterford’s most popular pattern, was designed in 1952.
There are many more thatched roofs as we come west. Our driver said they last about 25 years—if the birds don’t get in them. Guess there are few men left with the skill for putting them on.
The hedgerows—and the green fields—make for attractive scenery. There is very little traffic on the road. We went near Kennedy’s birth place but did not stop.
The birthplace of JFK’s great grandfather Patrick Kennedy is in Dunganstown, County Wexford. In June 1963, just a month before K was there, and five months before his assassination, President Kennedy visited his grandfather’s home and his Irish relatives.
This is an old hotel, but it does have a carpeted bath room—though can’t say that is much of a help. The wash bowl is in the room—none in the bathroom.
The Imperial Hotel in Cork opened in 1816, serving visiting business people, traders, and merchants. It has undergone several extensive renovations, and is now a luxury boutique hotel and spa.
After dinner Helen and I took a walk. Then we sat in the lounge a bit—they had a fire going—we thought perhaps they were burning peat.
Time to sleep—to Blarney Castle in the morning.
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Sat. p.m.
Great Southern Hotel
Another beautiful day with blue, blue skies. From what we have gathered from other tourists we have met, we have had unusually fine weather.
We went first to Blarney Castle. Helen and I climbed to the top—but I was satisfied with the view and watching other people go through the contortions of kissing the Blarney Stone.
Built between the 15th and 17th centuries, Blarney Castle is a tower fortification near Cork. The Blarney Stone, set into the castle battlements, reputedly has the power to confer the skill of eloquence and flattery upon those who kiss it. This requires leaning backwards over a steep drop.
Our drive to Killarney was quite a change of scenery. Instead of the small green fields there were rocks—rocks—rocks. The cottages are mostly white-washed mud ones. In the resort towns there was evidence of more prosperity. Guess sheep grazing is the most important thing. We had some wonderful views—lakes, hills, etc.
We stopped to pick heather. There are miles and miles of wild fuchsia—taller than I am. Foxglove also grows wild. I was interested to see the holly—somehow I had not connected that with Ireland. There is much rhododendron—which the driver said—and I can believe—is beautiful in May.
Wildflowers of Ireland (wildflowersofireland.net)
We arrived in Killarney after two, so went at once into the dining room to eat—then to our rooms. This is a beautiful hotel, owned by the railroad. Our rooms are in the new part and are very pleasant.
Helen and I went out at once to walk about the town. It is a resort town. The jaunting carts for rides are here—take one over to the lakes. It is not a very attractive town—too tourist minded.
Jaunting cars are horse-drawn carriages that are particularly popular for tours of the lakes and national park in Killarney.
I’ve had my bath, done the everlasting washing. Will dress soon for dinner—though we will eat late as we had such a late lunch.
Late—Sat. p.m.
After dinner we took a taxi out to one of the Killarney Lakes. It is about two miles from the town. Ross Castle stands beside the lake—the sunset reflected in the lake was thrilling. An American owns a great plat of land including two of the three lakes.
On the way to our room I looked out of a window—(third floor) and on the fire escape a peacock was roosting. He must roam about the beautiful garden but we had not seen him.
Our lights have been flickering—it’s time for bed anyway. Tomorrow, Sunday, we are to leave the hotel at 10:00 a.m.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this installment of Travels with K! If you know someone who might like to join us on the journey, please feel free to share.
